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Recent questions & answers:
Q62: In Oregon how much do you get at the mill for a full truckload of 40 ft. Douglas-fir logs? What about other species - or what is the most common species for lumber in Oregon?
A62: The typical volume for a conventional log truck will be around 3500 to 5000 board feet (or 3.5 to 5.0 MBF - thousand board feet) per truckload. See the publication Hauling Logs from Woodland Properties for more details.
Current log prices for Douglas-fir are listed on the Oregon Department of Forestry's Log Price Information page. You'll see there that in first quarter 2008, the prices for 2S and 3S (2 Saw and 3 Saw - common log grades for sawmills) Douglas-fir sawlogs have varied between $375 and $450 per MBF.
So assuming these loaded truck volumes and current log values, a loaded log truck would have between about $1300 and $2250 worth of logs on it.
Douglas-fir is the dominant softwood species in western Oregon; ponderosa pine is the main species in eastern Oregon. You can see the other main commercial species (as well as current prices) on the log price information page. The other species include western hemlock, Sitka spruce, white fir (and other true firs), western redcedar, incense-cedar, Port-Orford-cedar, lodgepole pine and sugar pine. Red alder is the main hardwood species.
Q61: I'm looking for a small EMC calculator that I can keep with me in the field. I troubleshoot hardwood floors and usually need to know MC. The simple graphs are not specific enough for me and the computer is frequently not readily available. I've seen some wheels that will show shrinkage depending on changes in MC - anything similar for EMC?
A61: Our wood shrink/swell program runs in Excel, but since you said the computer is not readily available, that won't help. I'm not aware of a small hand-held device specifically for this purpose.
Your next option might be to use a programmable calculator and input the formula from Chapter 3 of the Wood Handbook: Wood as an Engineering Material. See page 3-5 of the text. The formula uses temperature and relative humidity as the inputs along with several constants.
Lastly, you might also consider using a small thermohygrometer (usually about $50) and a table of EMC values based on temperature and humidity - such as Table 3-4 from the Wood Handbook.
Q60: What type of air velocity in feet per minute should be seen between stickers at the begining of a 100,000 BF charge of 16/4 Douglas-fir at 100 degrees F?
A60: If the load is 8' wide and stickers are 3/4" thick, 400-500 ft/min would be ok at that low temperature (and assuming high humidity - perhaps a wet bulb depression of <10 to 20F). This velocity is about the minimum for any commercial kiln. Sticker thickness is also important: 500 ft/min on 1" stickers provides approximately the same airflow as 1000 ft/min on 1/2" stickers.
There is no rule on air velocity. The faster one dries, the more velocity is needed. Faster drying occurs at higher temperatures, greater wet-bulb depressions, and with sapwood. Species, such as pine, with a lot of sapwood need more airflow than Douglas-fir which is mostly heartwood. When drying at higher temperatures, airflows are typically 750 to 1500 ft/min. Otherwise you can get wet lumber in the center of the loads. We hear of 3000 ft/min in some ultra fast kilns.
High airflow can have negative impacts if surface checking is a problem. The other negative is that airflow is expensive. Eight times as much electricity is required to provide 1000 ft/min as is required for 500 ft/min. Thus, one should only use high airflow if needed and then only after everything else is in order - the load should be baffled well and the stacking and loading should be done to promote good airflow.
This is a short answer to an important question. Two to three hours are devoted to these points during our annual How to Dry Lumber for Quality and Profit workshop.
Q59: I am working on a project to reduce fabric waste in the furniture industry. I have a presentation to do and am trying to figure out some kind of ratio of tree to pulp to rayon. I've kind of extrapolated that it might take 10 lbs of pulp to make 1 lb of rayon, but how many "trees" to make 10 lbs of pulp?
A59: Sounds like a great project - and it is an interesting question! Unfortunately, it's also a very tough question because paper is generally made from a combination of whole trees, mill residues, and recycled fiber. Only about 1/3 of the total fiber used to make paper in the U.S. comes from whole trees - and the yield from any given tree varies enormously by size and species. Mill residues (such as chips from sawmills) and recycled fiber are the dominant sources of fiber.
TAPPI's "Paper University" attempts to answer this question with their How Much Paper Can be Made from Trees. Citing a book from the American Forest & Paper Association, they report that one cord of air-dried hardwood (which weighs about 2 tons) will produce about 1/2 - 1 ton of paper.
Q58: We are planning to treat lumber with saturated steam to homogenize the colour. We wish to know if the process has some effect on the durability of wood, especially if it improves the durability.
A58: Steaming wood could either increase or decrease durability depending on species and duration of treatment. Steaming can degrade the hemicelluloses in wood and make the wood more durable (but also lower its strength properties). On the other hand, steaming can also damage the chemical compounds in wood that make it naturally durable and thereby lower its durability. That said, steaming is most often done on species like black walnut that are not naturally durable. The result is no significant difference in durability.
Q57: I am a small cabinet manufacturer in the midwest.I build an all wood product and like to finish the exposed ends of my kitchens with solid glued up panels to match the frames and doors of the specie used. I offer any specie of wood.
The matching panels I'm attaching to the 1/2" plywood sidewalls are also 1/2" thick. I'm ripping the wood in 2" wide sticks and gluing together. (I am not paying any attention to the end grain as they are so narrow). Then I'm planing to 1/2", sanding to .490, and finishing with stain to match and 2 coats of a high solids catalyzed conversion varnish. We attach the panels with some wood glue and several 3/4" screws from inside the plywood box.
I'm concerned with the movement of the wood and any future problems it may present. Can you comment please?
Thank-You
A57: Your concern for wood movement is certainly valid. Edge-gluing the wood as you're doing will help to randomize some of the movement, i.e., rather than concentrate it in one solid piece. Screwing the panels to the plywood backer should help to restrain the movement as well. Varnish will slow moisture gain and loss but not eliminate it. The concerns would be that, in the summer months, high humidity could cause the panels to swell and buckle. However, air conditioning will limit the humidity swings. The greater risk is probably in the winter - when cold dry air is heated the humidity can get quite low. In those conditions, the panels could shrink and split at the screws (which would take pretty extreme drying) or, more likely, glue joints might open up between the edge-glued pieces.
You can download a program we developed to help estimate shrink and swell in wood at http://owic.oregonstate.edu/woodxlsform.php. You can select from 100+ species, beginning and final moisture content (or temperature and humidity) and the size of the panel in thickness and width. For width, you could assume worst-case scenario and enter the full panel width (as if the panel were a solid piece). For grain orientation, you'd probably have a mix of flatsawn and quartersawn and thus could choose mixed grain.
Have you considered installing the panel within a frame and allowing it to float? This is the usual approach taken with raised panels in stile and rail doors.
Q56: I am interested in planting some oaks for future oak barrel stave production for the year 2100. There are many available oaks and hybrid species. Quality of wine oak is judged by the flavor profiles but also the grain tightness. Useally the tight grained sessile (Quercus petraea) is the top tree. Do you have a list of all oak species grain tightness? How about the new hybrids?
A56: This seems to be one of those situations where an industry has its own unique terminology (a common situation, of course). Although there are at least 50 different usages of the term 'grain' in the wood products industry, the term 'tight' appears to be unique to the barrel industry.
From what I can gather, barrel makers (coopers) define tightness as the width of the growth rings. As such, tightness is a function of the growth rate of the tree and would thus not vary by species, per se, but rather would depend on the environment where a tree grew. For example, an Oregon white oak (Quercus garryana) grown on the dry, south slope of a hill would likely have narrower growth rings than the same species grown on the north slope of the same hill. Also, foresters can impact growth rate by fertilizing, by altering the spacing between trees when they are planted, and by removal of some of the trees as the forest develops.
In short, assuming I understand correctly how the barrel industry defines tightness, we cannot specify grain tightness by species but rather must depend on where a tree is grown and any practices foresters have undertaken to impact growth rate for the trees.
As a related point - oaks are known as ring-porous hardwoods. That is, in the spring, large diameter earlywood pores (a.k.a. vessels) are formed. After 2-3 rows of these large pores, the much smaller diameter latewood pores are formed until the end of the growing season. This cycle from earlywood to latewood forms the annual growth ring. The interesting thing about oaks is that, the faster they grow, the greater the percentage of the growth ring is comprised of latewood pores, and thus the denser the wood. Thus, slow-grown (tight-grained) oak would be lower density than oak from trees that grew more rapidly. I'm not sure how this impacts barrel making, but just mention in the event there is some potential connection to how the industry views the quality of barrel staves.
Q55: I am currently in the process of drying 6x8 Douglas-fir timbers in a dehumidification (DH) dry kiln approx. 100,000BF capacity. Our dry kilns are capable of maintaining a temp of 110 deg F just with the DH unit and no auxilliary heat.
I would like to set the pitch on this material. We normally shut down the DH unit and turn on the auxilliary heat source (Steam Heat)and run up to 180 deg F for about 16 hours.
Can you tell me if it is safer to set the pitch earlier in the schedule or later in the schedule? Should I use some steam injection? Do you have any information on setting the pitch on large timbers such as schedules, temp ,time frames?
A55: Setting pitch requires driving off the volatile compounds (turpentine, for example) that allow the pitch to liquefy. The pitch is 'set' to the highest temperature you reach; that is, if the wood gets hotter in-service than the hottest it got in the kiln cycle, the pitch will liquefy again. In that case, the hotter the better.
The Dry Kiln Operator's Manual recommends setting pitch early in the schedule with high temperature (though they don't specify any specific temperature). To minimize checking of course, you'd want to use high humidity as well - so, steam injection may be required. The schedule should finish at at least 170 degrees. And this is a bare minimum temperature for Douglas-fir pitch as it can be harder to set than pitch in pine. I don't think 16 hours would be enough to get the core of a large timber to 170-180 degrees though. Sorry to say I'm haven't seen any schedules for setting pitch on larger timbers.
Q54: My Dad received a publication of current log prices for fir, hemlock, spuce and alder. Do you know of any publication that gives that information?
A54: The Oregon Department of Forestry lists quarterly log prices for Oregon on their Log Price Information page.
Q53: What load will the roof on our 40 year old cabin bear? We are concerned about the weight of the snow in this abnormal winter. The roof is rough 4 X 8 Douglas fir, or larch, beams spaced 4 feet apart. The beams are supported at each end by the normal and customary wall framing. The span of the beams is 14 feet. Laid across the top of the beams, perpendicular to them, is 2 x 6 tong and grove western red cedar. The steel roof is fastened to the top of the cedar. The ceiling inside the cabin is the under side of the cedar. The roof has only a slight slope that allows water to drain. Our Coeur d' Alene paper explains how to figure out the weight of snow, but I need help to know what weight the roof will bear
A53: Unfortunately, answers to such questions are not as straightforward as one might expect due to variability in allowable design values based on lumber grade, safety factors, etc. Your best bet is to work with a local consulting engineer on this question; should only require an hour or two.